This is my blog dedicated to New Orleans & Louisiana cooking! I'll give links to great Creole & Cajun recipes and sites, as well as some of my own recipes. I love talkin' New Orleans, food and otherwise! Incidentally, I'm from Detroit. Go Figure. Lets just say I figured out "what it means, to miss New Orleans" and this site helps ease the pain.
Wednesday, February 16, 2005
First You Start With A Roux....
1 Cup Lard (Hey, what can I say? Lard has the best flavor! You can use Veg. Oil though)
1 3/4 Cup A.P. Flour ( I always gradually add the flour, you may need more or less. It should be thick, but not clumpy)
1 or 2 Bottles of Good quality Beer, like Dixie
Heat you lard over Medium Heat until good and hot, while oil is heating, open a beer. Gradually whisk in your flour until smooth. At this time, I generally switch to a wooden spoon, it gets into the crevices better; take a sip of beer. You want to stir constantly, but not too fast, this is a southern dish. Slow down, have some beer. Picture a streetcar lazily lumbering down St. Charles Avenue. I can remember my mentor Chef watching as I whisked my roux as if it were a bowl of egg whites. He said, "What are you doing? Let it cook! If you stir too fast, you cool it down. It needs to cook." I always think of that when I make roux. However, you do want to keep that roux movin'. If it starts getting too brown as you stir, pull that baby of the burner for a minute, lower the heat a smidge, and For God's sake, Don't splash it on your skin, Chef Paul calls it Cajun Napalm, you'll know what he means if it gets you. I gradually lower the heat as I cook roux. Anyway, after about 10-12 minutes on the streetcar, the roux will start to look like wet sand, peanut butter colored. Drink some beer (I failed to mention, every shade of brown the roux turns, you should have a gulp of beer). Take it nice and slow, turning the heat down if necessary. Opening another beer if necessary. In about 10-12 more minutes, Your roux will look like milk chocolate. This is where I get off the streetcar, a lot of cooks take it further down the line, but this is my stop. I then let it cool at room temperature for awhile, then cover and chill. Be sure and check out my Creole & Cajun Recipe Page as well as my Bibliography of Creole & Cajun Cookbooks!
Sunday, February 13, 2005
Jelly Roll Morton
Wednesday, February 09, 2005
Gumbo
Gumbo is probably the dish most associated with New Orleans Cuisine and more largely Louisiana Cuisine. It has strong roots in the history of the state. Gumbo is a symbol of the community, and the history. It's just like Louisiana, or America for that matter, a little of this from here, a little of that from there! You have all of these cultural ingredients coming together, to make something truly fantastic! You have the French influence with the Roux (though this is a much darker roux, which the french would probably consider burned. Hats off to the Acadians), and the idea, some say, comes from the French Bouillabaisse of Provence, more specifically Marseille. You have the okra from the African slaves, the seeds of which, I've read, came to America nestled in their hair on the slave boats. The word Gumbo actually comes from the African word for Okra. Then we have the File (FEE-lay) from the Choctaw Indians, which is the young leaves of the native Sassafras tree that are dried and ground into a powder. Some say Okra and File, should never be used together, because they're both thickening agents. What do I say? A lot of cooks have a code of ethics, especially about something as sacred as Gumbo! That's what makes their versions good. I respect the purist point of view. But this is my kitchen Jack! I say experiment! Hey, if the earlier settlers listened to the guy saying they couldn't make Bouilliabaise because there was no Rascasse, there may not have been Gumbo. In life there is always someone telling you, "Hey you can't do it that way!" No matter what you're doing! Every place I have ever worked, I have one of these guys. Knows it all, but going nowhere. I say to hell with that, there is always a way to make it work. Its hit and miss, this is how we learn. Anyway, this post is going to be done in installments, this is a huge topic. But like all great stories from Louisiana, this one starts with a Roux....
Tuesday, February 08, 2005
Happy Mardi Gras!
Yes, in honor of Mardi Gras I'm going to do a section on Gumbo tommorow, specifically, Creole Gumbo! Since tommorow is Ash Wednesday, for traditions sake, I should be doing Gumbo Z'Herbes, but hey, what can I say. Anyway, Happy Mardi Gras, party it up folks, because come midnight, the magic is over. Until next year that is!
Monday, February 07, 2005
Zapp's Chips!
Happy Lundi Gras!
The Meters are going on the stereo & the Red Beans are going on the stove....
Sunday, January 30, 2005
Dixie Beer
The Muffuletta Incident
But I sucked it up, (and I'm still pissing & moaning about it) because the sandwich was for a friend back home, plus, I didn't want to pull a Castanza. But maybe Tom will tell his version of the story! I don't want to be one sided about the Central Grocery guys! After I get this out of the way, I can spill about how good their sandwich is, and why I'll go back for more abuse! I truthfully don't know why I got so bent over this, I would never eat at a deli with friendly counter people, because the food is probably horrible! After all, a corned beef sandwich in New York doesn't taste good unless you're verbally kicked in the nuts by the counter people. But that's another story!
Wednesday, January 26, 2005
Red Beans & Rice Recipes
~Chuck Taggart from The Gumbo Pages version.
~This page from La Belle Cuisine (which I love) has three versions. One is from a friend of the author, one from Emeril Lagasse, and one from Marcelle Bienvenu. Marcelle Bienvenu is a great food writer from Lafayette, Louisiana. I will do a post on her in the future. I love reading her books and articles.
~This is a brunch dish from Commander's Palace dish that uses Red Beans as a sauce. Eggs Louis Armstrong.
~Tom Fitzmorris, who is a food writer in New Orleans.
~Chef John Folse makes a Red Beans & Rice Gumbo
...more to come...
Tuesday, January 25, 2005
Take Your Drunken Ass Home
Red Beans & Rice
Creole Mustard Vinaigrette
3 Tablespoons Creole Mustard (homemade or I also like Zatarain's)
2 Tablespoons Thinly Sliced Green Onions
1 Tablespoon STEEN'S Pure Cane Syrup
2 Tablespoons Red Wine Vinegar
1 Teaspoon Cayenne or to taste
Kosher Salt to taste
Whisk this up.
Drizzle in 1/4 to a 1/2 cup Vegetable or Canola oil whisking until emulsified.
I think the salad, lightens up the double starch meal. A bite of RB&R, a bite of salad. It just goes nicely together. The other thing I learned, from the recipe of Louis Armstrong, no less, is to add a bit of tomato sauce, be it canned or homemade, towards the end of cooking.
But, the best pot of red beans I've ever cooked was made with pickled pork, homemade! I will post a recipe later, but the pork just disintegrated in the pot leaving behind all that flavor. I don't know why I didn't make it again; hell this week I will. Actually one of Louis Armstrong's recipes, I think, actually included it. Anyway more on red beans later.
Uglesich's Cookbook
Monday, January 24, 2005
Louisiana Cookin' has Great Chefs of Commander's Palace this month!
Cajun & Creole in Chile Pepper Magazine this month!
Saturday, December 18, 2004
Natchitoches Meat Pies
I used the crust from this one Emeril's Natchitoches Meat Pies.
Here is one from Recipe Goldmine that I kind of based my filling on Natchitoches Meat Pies RG.
I added celery to my filling, along with a touch of hot sauce, and my Homemade Worcestershire Sauce.
Friday, December 17, 2004
Red Beans and Rice
...to be continued...
Thursday, December 16, 2004
Recipe Gold Mine Regional Louisiana
Sunday, December 12, 2004
Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen
Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen.
The reason I love this cookbook is the man's knowledge of cooking. Chef Paul will tell you everything that should be happening while you're cooking, smell, look, taste, etc.. at certain stages. I've really learned a ton about cooking from this book! The Chicken and Tasso Jambalaya recipe is one of my favorites. I cook all of my Jambalayas this way now, which is, after sauteeing ingredients, add rice and liquid, finish in the oven, similar to a Paella. Most recipes finish Jambalaya on the stove top, I think it comes out far better from the oven. I've never made a bad recipe from this book, and most are phenomenal! The Crawfish Etouffee I had from K-Paul's during Mardi Gras was one of the best things I've ever eaten, and certainly the best Etouffee. Speaking of which, if your going to New Orleans for Mardi Gras, K-Paul's usually opens their window at night and serves a variety of different items to-go for about $6 or $7 bucks a-pop! Last year they had Crawfish Etouffee, Chicken etouffee, Blackened Drum, as well as a few others, including my favorite heart stopper, Deep-Fried Ham Po Boy! That's right folks bread and all, battered and fried! Atkins be damned! Pure heaven!
Anyway, if you've never checked out this ground breaking book, do so! It's very popular, so you should be able to find it anywhere, including the local library!
Wednesday, December 08, 2004
A word about Rice
Creole Boiled Rice
1 quart of Boiling Water
1 Cup Uncle Ben's Rice
4 Fresh Bay Leaves (If you have to use dried, do so, but damn..... the fresh are so much better!)
1 Tablespoon Kosher Salt
1 Tablespoon Unsalted Butter (Optional)
Bring the water to a boil with the bay leaves. Add the salt. Add the rice, stir to make sure the rice doesn't stick! Do Not Stir again! If you agitate the rice too much, it gets sticky! So give it a good stir, when it comes back to a boil, partially cover it. Cook for about 11 minutes, but taste it, don't trust me! It should have some bite, but a crunch is bad! When finished, drain it, pluck out the bay leaves, if desired place it into a 400 degree oven with the butter patted on top of it; this helps dry the rice out. ( I don't always do this, it's up to you)
I love this rice, I love the fragrance the bay leaves give the finished dish! It's simple and it's a great accompaniment rice! I use this for my Gumbos, Etouffees, Red Beans, etc, etc.. I hope you enjoy it!
Tuesday, December 07, 2004
Creole and Cajun Cookbooks
The Marie Laveau Portrait
Every time I visit New Orleans, I find myself drawn back down the rabbit hole of Marie Laveau . The sheer mystery of her history captivates...
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Here is my recipe for a Fried Shrimp Po' Boy . Like I said in my previous post, I'm a purist when it comes to Po' Boys, which ...
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Hey, If I can't be at Jazzfest, I may as well eat like I'm at Jazzfest! I'm working the food tent, you can go see my friend M....
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I just made my wife and I a whole bunch of Beignets for breakfast, I am so full. If you haven't been to New Orleans you've probabl...