YatCuisine Podcasts

I'm sitting here listening to Yatcuisine's Podcast about Gumbo. I've been hearing a lot about Podcasts, but I haven't checked any out. I love it! He's doing weekly Podcast's (Mp3 Format) about New Orleans cooking, Damn that's great! Check him out!

The Muffuletta Recipe

DSC00012-1
Originally uploaded by Danno1.

This pic is of the Central Grocery's Muffuletta. The best! The model that all other Muffulettas should try to emulate! There are a lot of bad ones in the city. The one at the Napoleon House isn't bad. It's a heated version with a more finely chopped olive salad. They also use Pastrami on their version, I'm not crazy about that. It's not bad, but like all others, It's no Central Grocery. Ask my friend Tom how great this sandwich is! He would have missed Lundi Gras one year because of a hangover if it wasn't for CG's Muff. I make a pretty good Muffuletta, I'm not going to say it's as good as CG's, but it's pretty darned good. The quality bread is important, you need about a 10 inch round loaf with a good coarse texture, nice crust (not too hard) and sesame seeds. Here is my recipe:

My Muffuletta

1 10" round loaf Italian bread with Sesame seeds
1 Recipe Olive Salad
1/4 lb Genoa Salami (Oldani is the best, and I'm relatively certain it's what CG uses)
1/4 lb Hot Capicola (this is my spin, you can use regular Ham.)
1/4 lb Mortadella (I use San Danielle)
1/4 lb Mozzarella
1/4 lb Provolone

Assembly:
Cut the bread in half length wise.
Brush both sides with the oil from your 1 week old olive salad, go a little heavier on the bottom.
Layer half of the Oldani on the bottom half of bread. Then the Mortadella. Then the Mozzarella, then the Capicola, Provolone, and the remainder of Oldani. Top this with the olive salad. Put the lid on and press it down without smashing the bread. Quarter it. You've just created pure heaven.

Serves: 4 light eaters, 2 hungry hangovers or one bad to the bone eating machine!

Check out The Muffuletta Incident

Louisiana Seafood Seasons

Ever ask, "When are Crawfish in season?" How about Soft-Shell Crabs? Well, check out this great chart from Louisiana Seafood: Louisiana Seafood Seasons Also check out the great list of Louisiana Seafood suppliers for Home Chefs or Professional Chefs.

Muffuletta Olive Salad Recipe

This is my version of the Olive Salad for the New Orleans Cuisine classic sandwich, The Muffuletta! My friend Tom and I always make at least one stop at the Central Grocery on Decatur during a visit for Mardi Gras. Grab a Muffuletta Sandwich, a beer in a go cup and sit up at the Riverwalk to watch the barges roll by on the Mississippi, or just sit in the street like a common Hobo, depending on how hungry you are. Back to the recipe, I would make this at least a week ahead, it improves with age. Use good quality olives, Hey, good quality everything, right! I'm fortunate enough to have a great Italian market, about a mile from my house called Ventimiglia's. I also make my own Pimientos, the jarred variety are mushy, and they're super easy to make; recipe follows. This recipe makes enough for a Muffuletta and a few Bruschetta (recipe follows):

Muffuletta Olive Salad

1 1/2 Cups Green Olives, Pitted
1/2 Cup Calamatta Olives (or Black) Pitted
1 Cup Gardiniera (Pickled Cauliflower, carrots, celery, Pepperoncini)
1 Tbsp. Capers
3 each Fresh Garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/8 Cup Celery, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. Italian Parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. Fresh oregano (When I have it in my garden) or 2 tsp. dried
1 tsp. Crushed red pepper flakes
3 Tbsp. Red Wine Vinegar
1/4 Cup Pimientos (Roasted red peppers) Recipe follows
1 Tbsp. Green Onions, thinly sliced
Kosher Salt & Freshly Ground pepper To Taste (salt may not be necessary)

Crush each olive on a cutting board with your hand. Combine all ingredients. Cover with:

Extra Virgin Olive Oil about 1 - 1 1/2 Cups

Put into a bowl or jar, cover and let the flavors marry for about a week.

Roasted Red Peppers (Pimientos)

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees

Place 2 Red bell Peppers (remove the blasted sticker!) on a baking sheet, place in the oven. In 15-20 minutes flip it over. Leave it in the oven for another 15-20 minutes. Remove from the oven, place in a container and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand for about 10-15 minutes, this makes the skin come off more easily. Uncover and remove all of the skin. Run under cold water, remove the stem and seeds, careful they're hot! Refrigerate. Great in a number of dishes, Paella, Jambalaya, Sauteed Chorizo or Andouille, Olive salad, you name it.

Olive Salad Bruschetta

Slice a Baguette into 3/4 inch thick slices on the bias, Pop them under the Broiler until they're golden brown. Break a Garlic clove in half and rub it onto the slices. Top with generous heaps of Olive Salad with plenty of oil & liquid. Serve immediately.

Related links: My Muffuletta Bread Recipe My Muffuletta Sandwich Recipe Central Grocery Post Napoleon House Post Be sure and check out my Creole & Cajun Recipe Page as well as my Bibliography of Creole & Cajun Cookbooks!

Tasso

Since I've been talking about smoking meats and sausage making, I may as well discuss the second most famous smoked meat of New Orleans Cuisine: Tasso (TAH-so). Tasso used to be made from the trim after a hog boucherie, thin strips, heavily seasoned, dried, then smoked for hours. It's a great seasoning meat for Gumbos, Jambalayas, Red Beans and just about every soup you could dream up. If you want to get really fancy make the Commander's Palace recipe Shrimp Henican, created by the late Jamie Shannon.

These days, the Tasso that you can buy is a little more fancy, more of a ham than the "jerky" style of the old days, mine is somewhere in between. I always find it amazing how these ingredients and recipes, that basically came from scrap and the poorest times, turned into Gourmet, I love it! Tasso is great to make and keep in the freezer, just as I described in My Andouille Recipe. When I make Andouille, I usually make some Tasso with it, it's very easy to make, but you have to do some planning. When you season it, I recommend keeping it in the fridge, at least 3 days, to let it cure. The last batch I made was beautifully pink inside after it was smoked, like ham. Unfortunately, I was a little heavy handed with the cayenne, which is fine for me, but my wife can't take the heat. It should have some heat, but I don't like losing control of the heat in a dish I'm making, the same reason you don't salt stocks. Here is my recipe for Tasso with the cayenne cut back. I use either a Boston butt cut into about 4 inch long, 1 inch thick pieces, or even better (and cheaper), Boneless Country Style ribs, as is. This is seasoning for about 5 lbs of pork:

My Tasso Recipe

5 lbs Pork cut as described above
Seasoning:

3 Tbsp Kosher Salt
1 Tbsp Cayenne or To Taste (see above)
4 Tbsp Paprika
1 Tbsp Garlic Powder
2 Tbsp Freshly ground Black Pepper
2 tsp Cinnamon
1 Tbsp White Pepper
1 Tbsp Brown Sugar
1 healthy pinch Pink Meat Cure or Prague Powder

Mix the seasoning together well. Rub the seasoning into the meat, you want a lot on there, call it 1/8 inch, use it all. Place on a plate or tray, cover and refrigerate 3 days. Smoke using my method for about 3 -4 hours. Kill two pigs with one stone and make some Andouille with it. Homemade Andouille Sausage Recipe Be sure and check out my Creole & Cajun Recipe Page as well as my Bibliography of Creole & Cajun Cookbooks!

Smoking Sausages or Seasoning Meats

Well, your Andouille has been made and left to hang in a cool place overnight, now it's time to smoke. I use an inexpensive (about $60) barrel smoker which can be found at Home Depot, Lowe's or just about anywhere here in Detroit. I usually use Hickory chips or chunks to smoke sausage, although I want to get my hands on some Pecan wood, that's what Jacob's uses, but it's kind of hard to come by in Michigan. I use charcoal, pushed to one side for the heat source, no fluid or match light please, all you will taste is the chemicals. I heat the charcoal in a chimney starter with a ball of newspaper under it. Now here is where the problem lies. Keeping the temperature down. If it gets too hot, it cooks the sausage instead of smoking it, which renders the fat out. You're shooting for 170-200 degrees F. My friend Tom and I were just talking the other night about his recent batch of Andouille. He came to the conclusion, and I agree, that it's best to make Andouille in the early or late winter time (call it 30-40 degrees F) here in Michigan. Your temperature stays just about right because you're not battling the summer heat. Another alternative is to put ice in the water pan underneath the meat. I swear, this year I'm going to build a cold smoker. Cold smoking is where your fire is in a seperate chamber and the smoke is piped to the meat with no heat. It takes a lot longer to smoke, but it's a much better product because your smoke curing as opposed to cooking. In the barrel smoker I would smoke it for about 3-4 hours. After it's done, and it's cool, I cryovac it in about 1 lb packages and freeze it.

Making Andouille Sausage

**Update 11/16/2005** I tweaked this recipe around and made it a whole lot better at Nola Cuisine. I simplified the seasonings and changed the smoking technique, it turned out wonderfully:

Latest batch of Andouille Sausage at Nola Cuisine (with picture).

I need to make a fresh stash of Andouille (Ahn-DOO-ee). The stuff in the grocery stores in my area is a joke, you may as well break open a package of Oscar Meyer hot dogs for your Gumbo. You know the kind I mean, basically Alpo, stuffed into a casing and injected with liquid smoke carcinogens. Anyway before I go about it, I thought I would blog about it, because hey, Andouille is a cornerstone of so many great New Orleans Cuisine & Louisiana dishes! The better the Andouille, the better the dish! I hear Jacob's is about the best around, they've been making it for 76 years or so, you can get it online, and I don't think they beat you up on the shipping cost. I still have to order some, to try it. But I enjoy making sausage, so I make my own. My good friend Tom does as well. So here is how I go about it. This is a 2 day process. I use either a pork shoulder or boston butt, which ever looks the best and is nice and fatty. I usually make about 10 pounds. If you can add extra pork fat, do so (but no salt pork please!). Fat is good for sausage. You want about 75% lean/25% fat. Cube this up into about 1 1/2 inch cubes. Toss with the following seasonings (Let's pretend we have 5 pounds of meat & Fat total):

My Andouille Seasonings
(For a 5# batch)

2 tsp of Cayenne or to taste (Remember, if you make it too hot, every dish you make with it will be too hot! Start off with a little, you can add more later!)
1/4 Cup Paprika
1/4 Cup Chopped Fresh Garlic
1/8 Cup Fresh Ground Black Pepper
4 Tbsp Kosher Salt
1 Tbsp Thyme, dried
1 Tbsp Granulated Garlic
4 Each Green Onions, sliced
1 tsp Crushed Red Pepper
1/8 Cup Non-Fat Powdered Milk (this is a binder)
1 pinch of pink meat cure powder

Toss this mixture with the cubed meat. Cover and refigerate overnight (this step is optional, but if you have the time, do it). Coarsley grind this (TIP: Keep your grinding equipment cold. It's for food safety as well as keeping the fat from starting to render from the heat of the machine). Make a small patty of this and cook it. How is the seasoning? Adjust if necessary, Check it now, last chance to reseason! If it tastes good you can stuff it into thoroughly washed hog casings. I weigh out 1 pound portions of ground meat, stuff it into the casing, then twist and tie them off. This will take a little practice. Now it's time to let them cure. The quick way, if you want to smoke them later that day, is to dry them in a barely warm oven for a few hours, just enough heat to make the air dry. But since I do it a day ahead, I hang them in the basement overnight, its cool & dark down there. You basically want to dry the skin out so that it will absorb the smoke, this is called forming a pellicle. Don't skip this step, trust me on this one. Don't worry about the meat spoiling. The spices cure the meat, just be smart about where you hang them, remember, this was a way of preserving meats before refrigeration, but if it freaks you out, you could certainly hang them in the refrigerator. When I make Spanish Chorizo, which isn't smoked, I hang it in the same fashion, but for a few days, until it starts to get nicely cured and wrinkled, like a pepperoni or salami.
...Check out....the smoking process...

The Sazerac

Sazerac
Originally uploaded by Danno1.

Another great New Orleans Cuisine icon! The Sazerac, some say is America's first cocktail. Invented by Antoine Peychaud, a Creole pharmacist, in the 1830's. The original contained Brandy (some say Cognac), absinthe and the Apothecary's secret bitters. Sazerac lovers all have their own recipe which they think is the best, which is ridiculous, because mine is the best. My buddy Tom also shakes a great Sazerac, he uses Wild Turkey Rye 101. In addition to recipe, an equally ferocious debate, is which bar in New Orleans has the best. I'm sure the locals would know better, but a great one is at the Fairmount Hotel's Sazerac Bar. The Fairmont Hotel, which was the Roosevelt until 1965. The Roosevelt was owned by Seymour Weiss, friend of Huey Long, who set up shop in the hotel. Anyway, they make a good Sazerac, as well as their famous Ramos Gin Fizz, but that's another post. Another thing, don't go looking for a Sazerac in the Hurricane shops on Bourbon, they'll look at you like your from another planet. Great places for a Sazerac on Bourbon are the Desire Oyster Bar or Felix's. Peychaud's can be difficult to find in the Detroit area but I managed to find a few places that carry it. Herbsaint, I've only found in New Orleans. Not too much different than Pernod, but it's 90 proof as opposed to Pernod's 80 proof, plus its cheaper, and from New Orleans.

My Sazerac

2 oz. Rye Whiskey (I use Jim Beam Rye, or Wild Turkey Rye 101; You could also use Bourbon, hell, Commander's Palace does!)
8 dashes Peychaud Bitters
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
1 Tablespoon Simple Syrup (equal parts sugar and water/cooked until the sugar disolves)
about 1/2 ounce Herbsaint or Pernod.
1 Lemon Twist

Chill an old fashioned glass. Combine the Rye, bitters and simple syrup in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake it baby, shake it. Coat the glass with the Herbsaint, pour out the excess. Add the mix to the glass, twist the lemon and drop it in. Enjoy!

A Variety of Uses for Creole Sauce

Now that I've given my basic recipe for Creole Sauce, here are some examples of its versatility within New Orleans Cuisine. Keep in mind, my recipe of Creole sauce is pretty small, 2-3 servings.

Catfish Courtbouillon (COO-B-yawn) Creole sauce made with dark roux and Seafood sock. Simmer the sauce with 4-5 lemon slices, add Catfish cut into 1 1/2 inch pieces. For my small recipe I would use about an 8-10 oz. Piece of Catfish. Serve over Boiled rice.

Grillades & Grits (GREE-yahds) Creole sauce made with dark roux and beef, veal or pork stock. I use Round Steak 1 lb. cut into 2 inch squares about 1/2 inch thick. Dredge the Grillades in flour mixed with Creole seasoning. Heat about 3 Tbsp. Vegetable Oil in a dutch oven until almost smoking, brown them very well (in batches if necessary). Cover the Grillades with Creole sauce, add a little water or beef stock to make it slightly thin, the sauce will reduce while cooking. Simmer for about 2 hours or until the meat is very tender. Serve over Grits.

Sauce Piquant This is a Cajun sauce which can contain almost any varmint imaginable. Alligator, Turtle, Squirrel, Rabbit, Shrimp, Chicken, Crawfish, et cetera. This is basically Creole sauce which is very, very hot; which makes it a Cajun Sauce. I would add about 1/4 cup hot peppers (Jalapenos if they're hot ones (they're not as hot as they used to be), or Serranos) for my small Creole Sauce recipe. Make it with a comparable stock to the main ingredient. Make it similar to the Courtbouillon. I don't usually use a thickening agent for this sauce, if I do its a dark roux. Serve this dish over rice.

Shrimp Creole Make your Creole Sauce with Shrimp stock. If you're fortunate enough to be able to find heads on shrimp, do so. Simmer the shrimp (about a pound) in the sauce until just cooked through, serve immediately over rice with plenty of sauce.

Creole Choron Sauce This sauce goes great with seafood, particularly Soft Shell Crab. Equal parts Creole Sauce & Bearnaise Sauce mixed together.

...more to come... Be sure and check out my Creole & Cajun Recipe Page as well as my Bibliography of Creole & Cajun Cookbooks!

Creole Sauce

Creole sauce is extremely verstile in New Orleans Cuisine and Louisiana cooking in general. It is the basis for so many dishes, when you come right down to it, with just slight variations for each, so I'm going to try to break this down as I see it, but first things first. My recipe for Creole Sauce. This is just my loose recipe, keep in mind everyone has their own! They may call it Red Gravy, Creole Tomato Sauce, Sauce Piquant (which isn't exactly the same but damned similar), but they all contain the same basic ingredients: Tomatoes, Holy Trinity (onion, celery, bell pepper), Garlic, Some kind of stock (usually chicken, more on this later), Cayenne, Hot Sauce, Bay Leaf, Seasonings (Salt & pepper or maybe a Creole seasoning, almost always Thyme), Green Onions and Parsley. These are what I consider the basics. Here is how I make a small batch (its usually just my wife and I, so this makes enough for dinner and some left over) of basic Creole Sauce:

CREOLE SAUCE

2 Tbsp. Olive Oil
1 Medium Onion, Julienned
2 Stalks Celery, Julienned
1 small Bell Pepper, Julienned
1 Tablespoon Garlic, minced
1 Can Diced Tomatoes (14 1/2 oz.) or Same amount Fresh from the Garden
Stock to cover, about 2 cups
2 Bay leaves (Preferably fresh)
Salt, Black Pepper, Thyme (dried), Cayenne, White Pepper all To Taste
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire Sauce
Hot Sauce, To Taste (I use Crystal Hot Sauce)
2 Tbsp. Flat Leaf Parsley, Chopped
3 Thinly sliced Green Onions
Corn Starch Slurry (2 Tbsp. Corn starch/2 Tbsp Water) or Dark Roux
depending on the dish.
**Note** If you don't want to use a thickening agent, simply reduce the sauce until it is the correct consistency.

Heat the oil over medium heat, add the trinity and saute until slightly wilted. Add the Garlic and Tomatoes and cook for about 1-2 minutes. Cover with the stock by 1/2 inch, add bay leaves and a small amount of seasoning, bring to a boil; lower to a simmer. If using roux, add at this point. Not too much, maybe 1-2 Tablespoons. If it gets too thick, add a little more stock or water. It should be loose but not too watery. Simmer about 20 minutes. Add the seasonings and Hot sauce to taste. Add the worcestershire sauce, parsley and green onions. If using the slurry, Bring to a boil then add the slurry, a little at a time until it is the right consistency. It should be tight, but not watery. Not too thick, not too thin. Remove the Bay leaves.

**a variety of uses for Creole Sauce ** Be sure and check out my Creole & Cajun Recipe Page as well as my Bibliography of Creole & Cajun Cookbooks!

File Powder

File Powder
Originally uploaded by Danno1.

If you've ever wondered how File (FEE-lay) Powder is made check out THIS LINK! File is a New Orleans Cuisine Staple, it is made from the ground, young and tender leaves of the Sassafras tree (Sassafras root is the original flavoring of root beer). The Choctaw Indians, native in Louisiana, introduced the use of File to thicken Gumbos and soups. One thing to remember about using a File in a Gumbo is never boil it. It becomes stringy and unpleasant. When I use File in a Gumbo, I always add it at the table. It has a wonderful flavor. I wish Sassafras trees were native in Michigan, I would love to make my own File.

Creole Gumbo and All That Jazz by Howard Mitcham

This is another of my absolute favorite New Orleans Cuisine cookbooks. I linked it to amazon.com so you can see it, and they have it for about $10, I payed $16. This is one of my favorite books to just sit down and thumb through. It was first published in 1978, and what I love about this book, in addition to all of the fantastic recipes, is the history of the dishes and ingredients. The author gives a very in depth description and history to a variety of different species of seafood, with loads of recipes for each; from oysters to alligators. He also has sections about different pioneer jazz musicians of New Orleans: Buddy Bolden, Jelly Roll morton, Louis Armstrong, etc. You really can't go wrong with this cookbook if you love Louisiana cooking, want to learn about it, or just want some great recipes.

Cajun & Creole Index on Recipe Source!

I just found this great site! I only linked to the Louisiana recipes, but they have other great regional recipes indexed on the sidebar. The New Orleans Cuisine section is great with loads of different versions of the classics, and recipes from famous chefs as well. Alex Patout's crawfish boil, the Napoleon House Muffaletta, and on and on. A great resource. Speaking of Napoleon House, if you get to New Orleans check this place out, great New Orleans ambience; charming, shabby decadence.

Jambalaya

Jambalaya
Originally uploaded by Danno1.

Jambalaya is as synonymous with New Orleans Cuisine as Gumbo! There are vicious debates about whether the dish is of French or Spanish origin. The word itself is from the French & Spanish word for ham, Jambon. The a la is French, and the ya is said to be an African word for "Rice". Personally, I can't see how someone could dispute the dishes similarity to the Spanish Paella, but hey, my opinion is like everyone else's: Worthless. Here is what we do know about Jambalaya: It's delicious! So everyone quick arguing and get cooking! (Although I love that people in Louisiana argue about food!) Here is my recipe which is an adaption of one of Paul Prudhomme's recipes.

Chicken & Andouille Sausage Jambalaya

1 Tbsp Unsalted Butter
1 Cup Andouille Sausage, Diced
1/2 Cup Onion, Diced
1/2 Cup Bell Pepper, Diced
1/2 Cup Celery, Diced
2 Tbsp. Garlic, Minced
1/2 Cup Tomataoes, Diced
1/4 Cup Tomato Sauce
1 1/4 Cup Chicken Stock
3/4 Cup Enriched Long grain Rice
1 Cup Boneless Chicken Thigh, Diced
(Seasoning Mix: 1/2 tsp Cayenne, 3/4 tsp White Pepper, 1 tsp Kosher Salt, 1/2 tsp Dried Thyme, 1/2 tsp Rubbed Sage, 3 Bay Leaves)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Melt the butter, saute the Andouille until slightly browned. Add 1/2 of the trinity (onion/b.pepper/celery) saute until tender. Add tomato cook about a minute, then add the tomato sauce, cook 1 minute more. Add the garlic and rice, cook 1 minute. Add the stock, seasoning mix, bay leaves, other half of the trinity, and Raw Chicken. Stir well and bake uncovered for about 30-40 minutes, or until the rice is cooked, but still has a little bite. Top with chopped parsley, and sliced green onions. Put on some Zydeco and enjoy!

Yield: 2-3 servings

**NOTE** You could substitute shrimp or other seafood for the chicken & seafood stock for the chicken stock. You could also substitute ham, tasso, kielbasa, chorizo, etc, etc... for the Andouille. This dish is great for using up leftovers. Last night I made it with 1/2 cup ham/ 1/2 cup Andouille, and I used leftover smoked chicken that I made the night before. As long as you keep the liquid/rice ratio you can use whatever you want.

First You Start With A Roux....

A lot of Acadian and Creole cooking stories start this way. Roux is the foundation for most dishes in New Orleans Cuisine. Gumbo, Crawfish pie, Court Bouillon (COO-be-yon), etc... Making a good roux is essential! This isn't the French roux, I'm talking about here! This is the Acadian roux! The deep chocolate colored roux that makes Gumbo what it is! I call these cooking stories because, folks like me, who like to cook, read cookbooks like a story. The author's story. I like cookbooks with some history in them. You know, where the dish came from, the evolution, that sort of thing. Cajun & Creole Cookbooks are great for this. The first chapter I read when I get a new one is ROUX. Usually Chapter One. It's fascianting how something as simple as cooked flour and fat, can be so different in each cookbook. I don't always cook my roux the same, I like to experiment. One thing that I do differently than most cookbooks is, not only do I cook the roux ahead of time, but I add it after the liquid. I find that I have more control over the consistency of the dish this way, especially if I'm making a huge batch of a gumbo or soup. Just remember, only add cold roux to hot liquid, or cold liquid to hot roux, also, roux doesn't come to its full thickening power until it boils. If you do make your roux ahead, it keeps well in the fridge for practically ever. Anyway here is the latest way that I made my roux:

1 Cup Lard (Hey, what can I say? Lard has the best flavor! You can use Veg. Oil though)
1 3/4 Cup A.P. Flour ( I always gradually add the flour, you may need more or less. It should be thick, but not clumpy)
1 or 2 Bottles of Good quality Beer, like Dixie

Heat you lard over Medium Heat until good and hot, while oil is heating, open a beer. Gradually whisk in your flour until smooth. At this time, I generally switch to a wooden spoon, it gets into the crevices better; take a sip of beer. You want to stir constantly, but not too fast, this is a southern dish. Slow down, have some beer. Picture a streetcar lazily lumbering down St. Charles Avenue. I can remember my mentor Chef watching as I whisked my roux as if it were a bowl of egg whites. He said, "What are you doing? Let it cook! If you stir too fast, you cool it down. It needs to cook." I always think of that when I make roux. However, you do want to keep that roux movin'. If it starts getting too brown as you stir, pull that baby of the burner for a minute, lower the heat a smidge, and For God's sake, Don't splash it on your skin, Chef Paul calls it Cajun Napalm, you'll know what he means if it gets you. I gradually lower the heat as I cook roux. Anyway, after about 10-12 minutes on the streetcar, the roux will start to look like wet sand, peanut butter colored. Drink some beer (I failed to mention, every shade of brown the roux turns, you should have a gulp of beer). Take it nice and slow, turning the heat down if necessary. Opening another beer if necessary. In about 10-12 more minutes, Your roux will look like milk chocolate. This is where I get off the streetcar, a lot of cooks take it further down the line, but this is my stop. I then let it cool at room temperature for awhile, then cover and chill. Be sure and check out my Creole & Cajun Recipe Page as well as my Bibliography of Creole & Cajun Cookbooks!

Jelly Roll Morton

This post has nothing to do with New Orleans Cuisine, but a lot to do with New Orleans. Jelly Roll Morton came up as a musician in the brothels and clubs of "the district" on Basin Street, or Storyville. He is known to most people as a braggart, a pimp, a pool shark, and head cutter on the piano. He was a character, you can be sure of that, but first and foremost he was a musician.

Jelly Roll Morton
Originally uploaded by Danno1.

I just finished a book about Jelly Roll Morton called Jelly's Blues: The Life, Music, And Redemption Of Jelly Roll Morton. A very sad story. A very familiar, sad story, of an unbelievably talented black musician who gave everything to his music, trusted some white business men, got screwed in a big way, died penniless and unhappy. We all know this story. I get sick everytime I hear it. This one was really sad to me. One of the originators of Jazz, everyone was playing his songs during his lifetime! Screwed on his royalties; his due, and worse than that, no one wanted him. He had so much music to give. His career took, what the book rightly called a "Free Fall". He was no saint, for sure, but a pioneer, and all he really wanted was his due. Some recognition. He never even got a jazz funeral, his band mates weren't even allowed to blow at his graveside. I was reading this, getting sick, then I turned on MTV, Ashley Simpson's show was on. Talentless, over privileged girl, getting far more than she is worth, simply because she fits a mold. No contribution to the music world, ZERO. But getting paid, very, very, well. If you love music, read this book. I'm going to go now, so I can steal some of Jelly Roll's music, via MP3, back from the record companies.

Gumbo

gumbo
Originally uploaded by Danno1.

Gumbo is probably the dish most associated with New Orleans Cuisine and more largely Louisiana Cuisine. It has strong roots in the history of the state. Gumbo is a symbol of the community, and the history. It's just like Louisiana, or America for that matter, a little of this from here, a little of that from there! You have all of these cultural ingredients coming together, to make something truly fantastic! You have the French influence with the Roux (though this is a much darker roux, which the french would probably consider burned. Hats off to the Acadians), and the idea, some say, comes from the French Bouillabaisse of Provence, more specifically Marseille. You have the okra from the African slaves, the seeds of which, I've read, came to America nestled in their hair on the slave boats. The word Gumbo actually comes from the African word for Okra. Then we have the File (FEE-lay) from the Choctaw Indians, which is the young leaves of the native Sassafras tree that are dried and ground into a powder. Some say Okra and File, should never be used together, because they're both thickening agents. What do I say? A lot of cooks have a code of ethics, especially about something as sacred as Gumbo! That's what makes their versions good. I respect the purist point of view. But this is my kitchen Jack! I say experiment! Hey, if the earlier settlers listened to the guy saying they couldn't make Bouilliabaise because there was no Rascasse, there may not have been Gumbo. In life there is always someone telling you, "Hey you can't do it that way!" No matter what you're doing! Every place I have ever worked, I have one of these guys. Knows it all, but going nowhere. I say to hell with that, there is always a way to make it work. Its hit and miss, this is how we learn. Anyway, this post is going to be done in installments, this is a huge topic. But like all great stories from Louisiana, this one starts with a Roux....

My Chicken & Andouille Gumbo Recipe

Happy Mardi Gras!

Rex Today
Originally uploaded by Danno1.

Happy Mardi Gras everyone! It sure is hard watching all of those folks have such a great time on the webcams today! I am supremely jealous! I was going to tackle a big topic today, but I'm not going to have time, because it's a huge topic. In a word: Gumbo
Yes, in honor of Mardi Gras I'm going to do a section on Gumbo tommorow, specifically, Creole Gumbo! Since tommorow is Ash Wednesday, for traditions sake, I should be doing Gumbo Z'Herbes, but hey, what can I say. Anyway, Happy Mardi Gras, party it up folks, because come midnight, the magic is over. Until next year that is!

Zapp's Chips!

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Originally uploaded by Danno1.

Hey, I was just watching a show on the food-network about potato chips, and hell, it's the day before Mardi Gras, and Zapp's didn't come up!!?? Get your Muffaletta or your Po' Boy or whatever sandwich strikes your fancy, but for God's Sake, get your Zapp's with it!!!! Your in New Orleans man... you know what they say, when in New Orleans do as the ahh.... Romans do, or something like that....hey I think they sell Zapp's at the Central Grocery, that's Roman enough for me!!...They're Italian!!! But whatever the cliche....Get your Zapp's Jack! Check out my pic! Central grocery Muff, Abita Turbo Dog and......you guessed it....Zapp's Cajun Crawtators! Talk about your balanced diet! We also topped that off with some boiled crawfish from the french market!

Happy Lundi Gras!

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Originally uploaded by Danno1.

I wish I could say this picture was from this year, but it was from Mardi Gras 2000. I'm spending this Mardi Gras in sunny Detroit! Damn. It's rough watching the people on the webcam, Everyone pie-eyed, smiles that say: Not a Care In The World. Like the two drunks in the picture. But even the years I don't get to go, it's always nice to know that Mardi Gras is happening in New Orleans. It will be there next year, and the year after that, and the year after that! A nice feeling. Anyway, since I'm missing New Orleans in a big way today, it's Monday so that means Red Beans & Rice! Anyway, to all you folks in New Orleans, Happy Lundi Gras, drink a few hand grenades for me and Tom. By the way, the picture: (Left to right) Guy from Nola.com, Danno, Tom.

The Meters are going on the stereo & the Red Beans are going on the stove....